Moving Print Bodies: Dans La Vie SS13

Rira Sugawara's SS13 Dans La Vie collection took a striking turn at London Fashion Week. Whilst a couple of those frivolously full and fabulous 50s style skirts I love appeared once more, this collection had more of an edge to it. Soft and slightly sheer fabrics had a feminine vulnerability to them but were contrasted with more rigid, glossy plastics, manipulated into statement sculpted shapes.
The collection showcased a powerful fusion of old meets new. Garment cuts referenced the traditional kimono and in the prints we saw the icons of 'Fujin' (God of Wind), 'Raijin' (God of Thunder) and 'Ryujin' (God of Dragon), beings of immense power. The traditional Japanese art style is ornate and I could spot the iconic decorative work of Tawaraya Sōtatsu from the 17th century.
Delicate botanical designs sat in contrast with stark geometric checker patterns and whilst most of the colour palette was earthy- with greens, yellows, nudes and browns- it contrasted with rich burgundy as well as pops of vivid blue and red.
There was a strong emphasis on the shoulders and also on the nipped in waist, exaggerated further by curving peplum details, creating a formidable silhouette. The models' hair was tightly woven, their lips nude, their cheeks sculpted and their eyes alluringly feline, creating a dramatic look for the modern woman.
As ever Sugawara has a wonderful way with prints, and whilst her trademark collage technique wasn't quite so strongly present at this catwalk show it's aesthetic was there in the panels of the garments, creating beautifully ornate shapes. This collection is about more than the prints but also the way they move on the body, celebrating the female form at its fiercest.

Exciting Encounter: Dans La Vie AW12

Once again at London Fashion Week Rira Sugawara made a loud statement with her striking boundary pushing prints for her label Dans La Vie's collection Exciting Encounter. I loved her playful collection for SS12  and again her prints went from strength to strength with a collection inspired by American Pop Art from the 60s and a spiritual character of a Japanese high priest, "Kukai".
For me Tokyo born Sugawara perfectly captures the creative essence of Pop Art and her prints are absolutely fantastic, smartly combining elements of art history such as inspiration from Da Vinci's portraits with everything from flamingos to bullseyes in a fun collage effect.
This collection certainly had a high dose of rock and roll attitude from the flashes of colour in the big hair to the highly reflective oversized circular sunglasses. The voluminous, kitsch 50s silhouette I loved in the coats and skirts of September remained but were also joined by a more slick, sleek sister with references to sportswear. The prints are brash together but could also be worn separately, mixed in with a modern wardrobe to make a bold statement in an outfit.
Along with Sugawara's fabulously original collage type prints sat shiny faux snake skins, juxtaposed in texture by faux furry collars which I think perhaps looked best with the fun and flirty vintage inspired numbers. I adored the feminine flashes of tulle and flamboyant little headpieces.
Rira Sugawara's clothes are so intriguing, creating a yearning to take a closer look which I was pleased to do so at Blow PR's press day. I really love how she successfully she manages to combine artistic references and creativity for a refreshing, modern look.

Dans La Vie SS12: Clash Beauty, My Pop Madonna

The Dans La Vie show was the first time I stepped into the Freemasons Hall which was the Vauxhall Fashion Scout location at London Fashion Week, and oh wasn't it gorgeous! The upstairs show space which you can see here was particularly lovely and added historic character to all the shows.










The designer behind Dans La Vie, Rira Sugawara, stands out with her bright and bold collage effect prints which posess a Pop Art quality. The print theme for this SS12 collection began in the aftermath of the earthquake that hit and devastated Japan in March, it then developed with Madonnas defiantly overcoming the situation, serenely offering protection and hope in the chaos. Then modern female music icons came into play as muses.
First stepped out the Camouflage Print garments to Madonna's Like a Prayer. The print has a rather citrus colour theme to it featuring a Madonna figure harshly cut across with stripes and flowers.
Then there were the Red Angels to Amy Winehouse's Back to Black, a more sombre toned fabric with large red flowers and angels. A romantic yet strong print.
The most colourful, and my favourite, section was the Rose Madonnas to Rhianna's Only Girl. It's the happiest print in the collection with pinks in contrast to cheerful blues. Here the angels are more picturesquely sweet amongst roses and hearts and the Madonna occurs again.
Lastly were the more sombre but visually fascinating City Tokyo prints to Lady Gaga's Born This Way. Within the print city skyscrapers loom in contrast to old religious art along with an ornate floral print and green apples, the latter highlighting the slightly sour yellow colour in the print.
The skin of the models was kept quite bare but the eyes were given a flick of eyeliner and pops of blue lipstick stood out with the City Tokyo print. The hair was scraped back in a high bun for an elegant look with a kooky twist. I also loved how the looks were finished with accompanying handbags in the vibrant prints.
I absolutely adored the voluminous skirts with nipped in waists for a 50s feel, but with very modern and unusual fabric choices with a glossy feel to them. The black skirt with layers of tulle underneath had a dramatic prom dress feel to it, and was one of my favourite pieces. Then there were structured cropped tops paired with cute shorts. The prints were absolutely fabulous and the cut of the clothes only enhanced them, with a few sheer warm toned fabrics thown into the mix. I came out of the show a cheerful bunny inspired by this very shiny new take on the 50s housewife look, which is pretty but in a complicated way.